Escape from reality in the Florida
Keys
Dangling
somewhere between Florida and the Caribbean -– both geographically and
philosophically –- the Florida Keys are all together someplace else.
Just as cleanly as they break from the mainland, they depart from
mainstream tempos. Their easy-going attitude, renegade spirit and vibrant
coral reefs make them a favorite destination for families, couples,
watersports enthusiasts and escapees of all kinds.
 The jumping-off point from reality, Key Largo, leads this journey into
island life at its most colorful and outrageous. Addresses along Highway 1
are described in mile marker numbers and shorts and flip-flops are the
official uniform of the so-called “Conch Republic.”
Beginning in Key
Largo, the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary protects
aquarium-clear waters, its reefs and marine life for the benefit of
fishermen, snorkelers and divers. Game and other tropical fish, sea
turtles, shells, sea fans and other awesome spectacles await underwater
sightseers. Dive shops can set you up with all the gear, courses and
transportation you need. One of the most popular spots, John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park runs charters to Christ of the Deep, a 4,000-pound
bronze statue resting on the sea’s bottoms, and other natural coral
formations.
To ogle sea critters without getting wet, head to Islamorada,
home to Theater of the Sea, which offers dolphin and sea lion interaction
programs as well as shows and exhibits. Also, don’t miss the chance to
feed giant tarpon that gather around the docks at Robbie’s of
Islamorada.
Fishing is one of the Keys’ greatest attractions. Cast for the big guys
– marlin, sailfish, tuna, dolphin – on deepwater charters or learn to
fish with finesse for the elusive bonefish, a haunt of backwater flats.
You’ll find charters available on all the major keys, particularly
Islamorada, Marathon and Big Pine Key.
Marathon
appeals to families with its museums and Nature Center of Crane Point and
its abundance of resorts, from mom-pop to grand destination types. It is
the launching point for the Seven Mile Bridge, often known as the Eighth
Wonder of the World. As part of the Overseas Highway that interconnects
the chain of keys, it consistently gets named among the nation’s most
scenic drives. From it, you will spot the original circa-1905 railroad
bridge. Today it’s a hot fishing pier that takes you to Historic Pigeon
Key, a site where Bahamian railroad workers once lived.
The bridge drops you onto Big Pine Key and Bahia Honda State Park, listed
among America’s best beaches. Most natural of the main keys, Big Pine
Key is all about fishing and its leading population of Key deer, a tiny
subspecies of the white-tailed deer that was hunted practically to
extinction in decades past.
Scuba operators take you into Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, diving
at its best in the Keys. Come summer, the quest is on for Florida lobster,
whose succulent tails show up on the menus of local restaurants during
open season. Conch is another culinary Keys icon, harkening back to the
islands’ deep Bahamian roots. Since conch fishing is no longer allowed
in the Keys, the meat for local specialties such as fritters, cracked
conch and conch salad comes from abroad. Restaurants also serve Cuban
dishes, Floribbean cuisine and tropical fruit treats, particularly that
specialty of all Keys specialties: Key lime pie. The contest is ever afoot
for the best of this pudding-like sweet-sour delight.
At the end of the road, like a tropical island version of Oz (lots of
lizards, no wizards), lies the inimitable Key West. Forget all the rules
when you enter this world of street performers, artists, sidewalk cafes,
funky saloons, historic B&Bs and a sunset celebration second to none.
Historically, one of Florida’s oldest ports and metropolises, it is in
many ways mired in the past. Attractions remember Ernest Hemingway’s
residence here, visits by Harry Truman, and the island’s shipwrecking
era, cigar-making days and military importance. The Key West Aquarium was
Florida’s first of its kind. It sits along the waterfront among a sponge
market, raw bars and resorts. It’s the place to be come sunset, when
throngs witness every form of entertainment from pet iguanas to
fire-eaters. This is a small taste of the Key West party scene. For the
full force, visit during Halloween when Fantasy Fest turns the streets
upside down.
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